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Mount Cho-Oyu Expedition

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TRIP FACTS

Duration38

GradeVery Hard

The name Mount Cho Oyu is called 'Goddess of Turquoise'. As goddess is 'chomo' in Tibetan language and turquoise is 'yu'. Hence, 'Chomo Yu' has changed into Cho Oyu in course of changing civilization generation after generation. It is also reported that Cho Oyu is also called 'Mighty Head' meaning 'god's head'. On a clear weather, the view from the summit plateau of Cho Oyu is breathtaking. One can view the entire panorama of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Chamlang, Ama Dablam and other peaks of the Khumbu through Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition.

Cho Oyu stands high above the Tibetan plains on the boarder of Nepal with its mighty height 8,201 m above the sea level. The expedition is an ideal choice for mountaineers ready to test themselves on the eight-thousanders. Mount Cho Oyu, the world's sixth-highest mountain was first to step onto the snow-dome summit were the Australians - S. Moechler, H. Tichy and P. Dawa Lama from Nepal in 1954. This majestic Himalaya is arguably the most technically straightforward, accessible and safe to climb. These days, there are more than four different routes on Cho Oyu with the Tibetan north side offering several worthy possibilities. The Base Camp for Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition is situated at Rongbuk glacier at 5180 m height. The climbing starts at Camp 1 which is placed at an elevation of 7000 m.

Cho-Oyu Expedition (8,201 M)

The sixth highest mountain in the world is Cho Oyu (8201m).  Cho Oyu Expedition is a classic Himalayan climb and considered the easiest 8000 m peak to climb via its Northwest Ridge, with no technical climbing, big snowfields, and little objective danger. Mt. Cho Oyu is easily accessed by 4-wheel-drive vehicle from Tingri, often guided, and is the first 8,000-meter peak for most climbers. Cho Oyu is located 30km west of Mt Everest and straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet. The peak can be climbed from both Nepalese side up on south face and north-east ridge routes and Tibetan side along the Northwest ridge route with North approach being an easier and a standard route, which was also the route of the first summit. The mountain Cho Oyu is climbable during both spring and autumn seasons.

For climbers that want additional support for Cho Oyu Expedition, Snowy Horizon offering a Personal Sherpa Option to you. We will assign exclusively to you one of our very best Sherpas, who has reached to the summit of Cho Oyu and Everest many times. Who has been trained through the Khumbu Sherpa climbing school, and who speaks English well. In Cho Oyu Expedition as a small, two-person team, you will be able to take advantage of the "best of both worlds" with all the "horsepower" of the main Snowy Horizon team at your disposal in case of emergency. However, Snowy Horizon will also have the additional flexibility afforded by a climbing partner who is committed to climb exclusively on your own schedule, when you want to. Your personal Sherpa will also be available to help carry your personal gear to the higher camps, and if desired, additional oxygen for Cho Oyu Expedition.

To complete expedition of Mt. Cho Oyu, we set up the Advanced Base Camp and then three high camps in the mountain. Thereafter starts our main attempt to scale the summit (8201 m). The expedition will be supported by very experienced staff and climbing guides. We supply excellent mountaineering tents also for the high camps to our climbers of Mt. Cho Oyu. 

Approaches to Cho Oyu from North (Tibet):

Climbing Routes:

South Side:

  • South side of Cho Oyu is a great climbing playground for high altitude climbers because of the cool face relatively easily accessible for skilled climbers.
  • In 1994, Yasushi Yamanoi has completed First solo ascent via the South West face. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp.
  • The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.

North Side:

  • The Northwest Ridge is also known as Tichy Route. Tichy Route is a normal route for commercial operators and for first time climbers of 8000m peak. It doesn’t require technical climbing skills as it is a less than 50deg snow-field with one very short section of yellow band rock with fixed lines. The route begins from the Gyabrag Glacier at the base of Peak 6395 and the location of the advanced base camp (ABC) at 5700 m (18,700').
  • The route skirts first and then ascends the screed and fern on the west side of the slope leading to Camp 1 at 6400 m (21,000') at the bottom of the Northwest ridge proper of Cho Oyu. Camp 1 location is very nice as it is well sheltered from the weather by the ridge itself and the rocks below the base of the Northwest ridge.
  • From Camp 1 the route follows the Northwest ridge, and then opens out onto the Northwest face of the upper mountain. About halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2 there is a steeper 30-50m section consisting of moderate ice cliff. Most of the route between Camp 1 and 2 is fixed with rope because there are hundreds of unskilled mountaineers with huge entourage of climbing Sherpas provided by commercial operators.
  • Camp 2 is located at about 7200 m (23,500'). Some expeditions fix an intermediate temporary camp between C1 and C2, just below the ice cliff on the Northwest ridge at about 6600 m (21,600'), especially during the first or second acclimatization trip.
  • Most of operators fix a high camp at about 7450 m (24,500') just below yellow bands to maximize the chance of success on summit day but occasional parties do the summit from C2. Usually the yellow bands are fixed with rope, which requires some strenuous climbing. Above this, more rocky bands there are a steep summit ridge snowfield. Expeditions usually continue up this steep snowfield to the crest of the Northwest Ridge and the false summit. From here climbers cross a broad plateau, with a very small rise to the true summit of 8201 m (26, 901 feet). From the true summit there is an incredible view of Everest and Makalu.

Other Possibilities:

ITINERARY

07 April: Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport & transfer to hotel (1350m).

08-09 April: Day 02-03:Rest, preparation, visa collection, assignment & briefing.

10 April: Day 04: Drive to Timure-overnight lodge; overnight hotel (BB Plan).

11 April: Day 05: Immigration formality and Drive to Kyarung; overnight hotel (BB Plan).

12 April: Day 06: Acclimatization at Kyarung; overnight hotel (BB Plan)

13 April: Day 07: Drive to Tingri; overnight hotel (BB Plan)

14 April: Day 08: Drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (5200m) six hours; Camp.

15-16 April: Day 09-10: Rest and acclimatization at Chinese Base Camp; Provision of Yaks and preparation for Advance Base Camp (ABC) trek.

17 April: Day 11: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5300m) along the 4x4 track, camp.

18 April: Day 12: Trek from Middle Camp to the ABC (5700m) of Cho-Oyu, camp.

19 April-12 May: Day 13-36: Climbing Period – Summit Cho-Oyu (8201m).

13 May: Day 37: Dismantling ABC; drive to Chinese BC; drive to Tingri; Hotel.

14 May: Day 38: Drive to Kyarung; overnight hotel (BB Plan).

15 May: Day 39: Drive from Kyarung to Kathmandu; overnight hotel (BB Plan).

16 May: Day 40: Rest and leisure day and shopping in Kathmandu.

17 May: Day 41:Final departure to your port of destination.  

COST INCLUDE / EXCLUDE

INCLUDE

• All airport/hotel/airport transfers
• 5 nights hotel (5 star, Annapurna or similar) in Kathmandu, BB plan
• Expedition permit, conservation fee and all permit
• 50 Kg Expedition equipment luggage or barrel per climber is allowed
• Necessary yaks for carrying equipment & loads
• Food and fuels in the base camp for whole period
• 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
• Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
• Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
• Liaisons officer and interpreter service
• Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
• Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
• Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
• Group climbing equipment such as fixed rope, snow bar, ice screw etc.
• Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
• Gamow bag (Life saving device in case of altitude sickness) provided
• Satellite phone on pay call basis (1 min = $ 3)
• Garbage deposit fee
• Visa Extension fee
• Welcome and farewell dinner
• Agency service charge

EXCLUDE

• International flight ticket, taxes and visas
• Lunch & dinner, hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu
• Personal trekking & climbing equipment
• All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
• Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
• Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications - equipment (if brought)
• Extra yak charge
• Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa, Tips for Base Camp Staff
• Climbing Bonus & Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
• All not mentioned in cost include part

Client Reviews Write a Review

Ajaya Bajracharya

this is wonderful, experience trip


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