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Mount Lhotse Expedition

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GradeVery Hard

Mount Lhoste is the fourth highest mountain in the world with its height 8,516 m. Lhotse, which means 'south peak', is a part of the Everest massif, lying just south to the Everest. Mt. Lhotse was climbed by a Swiss Expedition in 1956. Lhotse Shar, 8383 m, is sometimes considered a separate 8000m peak, however, it is the lowest peak of Mount Lhotse. The primary route of Mt. Lhotse expedition is via Everest's South Col. Mt. Lhotse Expedition is regarded as the least climbing activity of any 8000 m peak in Nepal. Similarly, Lhotse Sar was first climbed by an Austrian expedition in 1970. There was no definite route in the region before 1977. It was the German Expedition who had established the comfortable route to summit the peak in the year 1977.

Lhotse, a peak 3 kms south of Mt. Everest, in fact a part of the Everest massif, separated by the South Col, is the 4th highest (8,516 m) peak in the world. According to Tibetan language, Lhotse means ‘ South Peak’. Situated on the border,  between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal the peak was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Frituz Luchsinger. Lhotse is well-known for its remarkable south face, the place that has been the site of failed attempts and some notable fatalities. Probably because of this and the extremely difficult climb, the peak is rarely attempted.

The Lhotse Expedition: Typically 48 days is required to complete the expedition, in which 39 days are set aside for climbing. The expedition starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, from where we trek all the way up to the Everest Base Camp (Mt Lhotse and Mt. Everest share the same base camp) beside the Khumbu glacier; enjoying the beautiful Sherpa villages, culture and their hospitality. Lhotse expedition not just shares the base camp with Everest expedition, but also the length up till the south col, on the way to Everest’s Camp 4. The climb from the base camp to camp I (at 6,400 m) is via Khumbu Icefall, which is the most dangerous section of the climb due to the presence of large crevasses, deceptive uneven seracs and high objective danger of falling ice. Once past the Khumbu Icefall, although the route is technically demanding, it poses less objective danger. The first camp is located on top of the Khumbu Icefall. Camp II (at 6,752 m) is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the west ridge. The view of Lhotse from this place is simply marvelous. However, one needs to fight flat glaciers and crevasses before one can enjoy this view.  Camp III (7,100 m) is located on a small ledge on the Lhotse wall. The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 is first across the glacier and then about 600m on the compact snow field. Camp IV (at 7,850 m) located near the south col is the last camp. Camp 4 from camp 3 is through the two rock sections: the Yellow Bands and Geneva Spur, with the help of fixed ropes. From camp 4 the final push towards the summit is on a steep narrow gully along a mix of packed snow, ice and some rock. The surrounding view from the top is very much rewarding.


Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840 m) and trek to Phakding (approx 4hrs walk)
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar(3440 m approx 7hrs walk )
Day 05: Acclimatization day
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860 m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Pheriche / dingboche (4250m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 08: Trek from Pheriche / dingboche to Lobuche (5018 m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 09: Lobuche rest day for acclimatization
Day 10: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170 m approx 3 hrs walk) and rest
Day 11: Trek from Gorakshep to Lhotse Base camp (5200 m) which takes about two hours
Day 12-51: Climbing period (summit period for Lhotse)
Day 52: Trek from Base Camp (5218)to Dingboche(4260 m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 53: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860 M approx 4 hrs walk)
Day 54: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar(3440 m approx 4hrs walk)
Day 55: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840 m approx 7hrs walk)
Day 56: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Transfer to hotel
Day 57: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 58: Final departure



• All airport/hotel/airport transfers
• 5 nights hotel (5 star, Annapurna or similar) in Kathmandu, BB plan
• Expedition permit, conservation fee and all permit
• 50 Kg Expedition equipment luggage or barrel per climber is allowed
• Necessary yaks for carrying equipment & loads
• Food and fuels in the base camp for whole period
• 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
• Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
• Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
• Liaisons officer and interpreter service
• Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
• Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at ABC (use and pay)
• Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
• Group climbing equipment such as fixed rope, snow bar, ice screw etc.
• Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
• Gamow bag (Life saving device in case of altitude sickness) provided
• Satellite phone on pay call basis (1 min = $ 3)
• Garbage deposit fee
• Visa Extension fee
• Welcome and farewell dinner
• Agency service charge


• International flight ticket, taxes and visas
• Lunch & dinner, hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu
• Personal trekking & climbing equipment
• All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
• Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
• Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications - equipment (if brought)
• Extra yak charge
• Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa, Tips for Base Camp Staff
• Climbing Bonus & Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
• All not mentioned in cost include part

Client Reviews Write a Review

Ajaya Bajracharya

this is wonderful, experience trip

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