Mount Thulagi Expedition
Overview Mount Thulagi (6400m) Expedition journey with Nepal Expedition Pvt Ltd starts from Kathmandu to Besisahar continuing to Shynge, Jagat,Tal. The base camp of Mount Thulungi Expedition can also establish at Thulagi at 3,800 meters. After five days on the true right bank of the Changlhi glacier. Phungi (6,540m) can also be seen down below. It is also difficult to move along the route of Dudha Khola. It takes 9 to 11 hours through dense forest and complex moraine to reach base camp. After crossing this river We close it to the Khasontu Khola. We cannot find water resources at…
Mount Thulagi (6400m) Expedition journey with Nepal Expedition Pvt Ltd starts from Kathmandu to Besisahar continuing to Shynge, Jagat,Tal. The base camp of Mount Thulungi Expedition can also establish at Thulagi at 3,800 meters. After five days on the true right bank of the Changlhi glacier. Phungi (6,540m) can also be seen down below. It is also difficult to move along the route of Dudha Khola. It takes 9 to 11 hours through dense forest and complex moraine to reach base camp. After crossing this river We close it to the Khasontu Khola. We cannot find water resources at this site so everyone should carry the water from the glacier themselves.
Journey to Thulagi Base Camp: Challenges and Hazards in the Himalayas
The right bank of the Changli glacier. Thulagi base camp is established at 3800m after 5 days of walk from Syange. Till there the usual transport carry from Kathmandu, Besisahar and Syange, down before Pungi (6540m) is seen, the trek along the Dudha Khola has been difficult walking. After crossing it close to the Khasonta Khola, it also takes 9 to 11 hours through dense forest and complex moraine to reach the base camp, everybody should carry the water from glacier as there’s no water at this site.
Toward the right side of the North West face a prominent snow ice spur is there. It can also be traveled from the same line as the Japanese had done it a long ago. There are large hanging seracs on either side of the spur, generally makes the route defective and dangerous. At the start of the seracs and above there the climbing route has crossed through the broken glacier, based the base camp at 4000m. Where’s there is a little snow and the slope is not steep, above 5000, the angle is creased to 40-50 degree’s elevation with a lot of snow.
DAY 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu transfer hotel
DAY 02 : Preparation of the documents Expedition
DAY 03 : Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism by an experts
DAY 04 : Drive to Besi sahar & Syange
DAY 05 : Trek Syange to Tal
DAY 06 : Trek Tal to Dona Khola
DAY 07 : Trek Dona Lhola to Stone Cottage
DAY 08 : Trek Stone Cottage to Base camp at Thulangi Lake 4000m.
DAY 09-25 : CLIMBING PERIOD MOUNT THULAGI 7059M
DAY 26 : Trek back to Dharapani
DAY 27 : Trek Dharapani to Syange
DAY 28 : Drive Syange to Kathmandu
DAY 29 : Leisure and Resting Day at Kathmandu
DAY 30 : Final departure to your next destination
- Airport Transfer Costs (Pickup and Drop-off)
- 4 nights’ accommodation in 3-star or similar category hotel on a bed and breakfast basis
- Welcome Dinner Hotel in Kathmandu.
- 01 highly experienced High Altitude Climbing Sherpa for Climbing during summit day with the idea of making your ascent safe and successful so 1 Member : 1 Climbing Sherpa
- 01 Government Laision officer Wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurances
- Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar/Koto/Beshisahar/Kathmandu by private jeep with guide and other staffs.
- 3-time meals and tea-house accommodation during the trip and camping accommodation at the base camp and high camps during trekking and expedition.
- All food and fuel for the base camp and higher camps during an expedition for all members and expedition crews
- All essentials for trekking and climbing including heating stoves, high nutrition foods and water, EPI Cooking Gas, waterproof tents, warm tents for sleeping, kitchen tents, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils, and many more for your comfort and convenience
- Chef Cook, cook assistant, helper, and base camp manager to take care of food, drink, and other necessary services
- 30 kg personal gear and equipment per member Carriage by porter/yak/mules
- Climbing permit of Mt. Thulagi from Nepal Government
- Annapurna Conservation Area Entry Permit
- Restricted Area permit of Narphu Valley
- Weather forecast report as necessary and Continuous monitoring and update for summit push
- All wages, clinical, equipment, and accidental insurance for all elaborate staff in the journey and climbing
- First aid medical kits for the group and the staff, taking care of your climbing and health safety.
- Satellite phones, walkie-talkies (radio set) with the expedition team leader, and your Climbing Sherpa guide. Satellite phones are available for members at the cost of US$ 3 per minute call.
- Dynamic/static rope, ice screws, snow bar, and rock piton locked unlocked Carabineers to open the route and for safe and successful climbing
- Generator for backup lighting power and charge electronic tools if solar panels are not enough for light and charge the battery.
- Transportation, service of food, all needed expedition, content supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu and return to Kathmandu (Cargo to Koto and then by porter/ Yaks to base camp and return
- Emergency oxygen, mask, and regulator provided to guests and expedition staff requirements (Nominal Charge Applicable)
- Solar systems for lights because there is no available alternative to electricity or lighting at the Base Camps. So Everest Expeditions Nepal provides solar panels or generators for lighting, battery, and mobile charging at the base camp.
- Clean, nutritious, and fresh foods at the base camp and higher camps
- Climbing Sherpa, Cook, BC staffs and porter Medical insurance, helicopter evacuation insurance, and treatment insurance.
- Farewell Dinner Everest Expeditions Nepal Bars and kitchen, Kathmandu.
- Official service charges, government charges, and all taxes.
- International Airfares and Nepal Entry Visa Fees
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu
- Expenses of Personal Nature including personal trekking and climbing equipment, laundry expenses, mobile phone bills, bar bills, satellite phones, and Internet Services
- Travel and medical insurance to cover the cost of emergency rescue, medical treatment, medical tests, and hospitalization in case of need
- Any extra expenses incurred due to unforeseeable events like natural disasters, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government rules, or any events out of our control
- Additional costs if needed extra workers, than what we have included in the package.
- Summit Bonus to the Climbing Sherpa Guides of $700 as set by the Mountaineering Association and Department of Tourism Rules
- Tips for guides, chef cook, cook, cook assistance, base camp manager. Normally US$ 250 per person is collected by the team leader and divided among all involved base camp staff except the climbing Sherpa guide.
- All the services not mentioned in the above package (cost includes parts) are excluded
We can follow the same route which Japanese has used long ago to climb Mt Thulungi. There is a prominent snowy ice spur toward the right side of the northwest face, which we can climb towards the right flank. A large hanging serac can be seen on either side of the spur, which has made the route quiet dangerous and difficult.
An advanced base can be fixed at 4,000m at the beginning of the serac. Climbing above route has been crossed through broken glacier, where there is a little snow and the slope is not steep. The angle is creased to 40-50°’s above 5000m elevation with much more snow. The angle gradually increases on the upper slopes. The Japanese high point can be passed and 4/5 days after leaving advanced base, you reach at the ridge’s top of the face (ca 6,400m). From here you can descend down easily from here and can reach the plateau at 6,250m. This high-altitude plateau is the upper Thulagi glacier forming a sort of shoulder to the south west of Mount Manaslu. It is bordered by the summits of Thulagi 7059m. We can see 29 peaks from there (mount Ngadi Chuli, 7,871m). The beautiful mount Manaslu itself can be seen from there. The route to to Thulangi from South face is difficult.
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